Bilge runners were made from 25x25 Douglas Fir. They were glued to the hull and screwed from the inside. This was fairly hard and the wife was sent under the boat with an electric screwdriver to drive the screws through while I pressed down on the runners from the outside. You can see the amount of curve.
The runners were held down by cargo straps at the aft end of the boat.
For the end towards the bow, the curve is so severe that I had to use more bilge runner than would be left at the end of the process. I used the extra length of runner for leverage to hold down the runner where it was glued. You can see in the photo, I have put packing tape where the runner will eventually end. I screwed through the hull into the extra section of runner and filled the holes when this part of the runner was removed. To keep the correct twist in the runner and keep it flat against the hull I attached a clamp and applied torque by twisting it downwards and attaching it to a heavy floor jack with a cargo strap.
After it all cured I cut away the excess runner and tidied up the edge. The ends were then tapered down.
The outer stem was made of five strips of 25x5mm Douglas Fir. I soaked and heated it as before and put it on a jig for a few days to get it to keep its shape as much as possible before laminating it and glueing it to the hull in one go. I could have laminated it in advance like the inner stem but I wasn't sure that my outer curve matched that in the plans so I just put thickened epoxy between the layers and started screwing them to the bow starting frmo the top end and working back towards the centreboard slot. Trying to keep it all straight was the hardest part. At one stage I had to hang out of the garage door mechanism with one hand whle standing with one foot on a ladder and another foot on the stem pressing it down into the curve.Then with one hand I drilled a pilot hole for the 50x5mm SS screws, swapped screwdrivers and screwed in the screws whiel trying not to fall off the stem of the boat. It wasn't easy to do this and watch "LA Confidential" on TV at the same time I can tell you!
A bevel was cut into the end of the stem to match up with the stem just forward of the centreboard slot.
The skeg was laminated from 3 peices of 6mm marine ply. The plans called for a 12mm skeg but this looked too thin when I made it so I laminated another layer to bring it to 18 which seemed more solid.
The shaped skeg was glued and screwed through from the inside. Some cargo straps were used to keep it in position while this was going on.
The skeg supports were made from 25x25mm Douglas Fir. They were first attached at the forward end of the skeg with epoxy and screwed through from the inside as well. Excess 25x25 was used to allow a heavy weight to be placed on them for leverage to allow them to make the curve on the hull.
At the other end, another weight was placed to help them go around the curve of the hull.
Finished result at the back of the boat. A lot of epoxy to be scraped away and sanded later.
The other end was trimmed away, flush with the skeg.
Some packing tape was used to keep epoxy off the hull.
Centreboard slot runners/reinforcement were joined to the stem........
...and to the skeg reinforcements.
